A Week on my Croatian Plate
To bring summer to a close, I'm reminiscing upon my best and worst food experiences in the Pearl of the Adriatic - Dubrovnik. (WARNING: Don't read if you're hungry)
And just like that, it’s September. As of writing this we’re only eight days in, and I’m already digging out my winter jumpers for the now brisk 8am morning commute.
Admittedly, I’m rather excited for autumn. Gilmore Girls, hot coffee, porridge for breakfast instead of yogurt bowls - I’m here for it. But before we can officially say summer is over, I’d like to reminisce on the six, blissful days I spent in Dubrovnik earlier this summer. Six days of swimming in the clear waters of the Adriatic Sea, catching up with friends – all while sipping on crisp glasses of white wine accompanied with fresh, warm pieces of bread soaked in olive oil and balsamic.
You’ll come to realise, food plays an incredibly important part in my holiday experience. When on a trip I try to immerse myself within the local culture as much as possible - whether in the form of a national dish, or locally produced glass of pinot.
With that in mind, this week I’ll be transporting you to the southern Adriatic coastline - where fresh seafood isn’t just served on the menus of the finest beachfront restaurants, but forms part of a ‘grab-and-go’ culture - Kentucky Fried Cockles, if you will.
From famed black squid risotto to corner shop sweet treats, here are some of my favourite (for the most part), Croatian food finds.
The high, and lowlights:
Pršut
Before heading to Croatia, I made sure to do my research. I dedicated a good hour to reading food blogs, trip advisor reviews and travel guides in order to create a ‘must try’ list for a taste of Dubrovnik’s best. First up, pršut.
Yes, it is just prosciutto. But it’s Croatian prosciutto. The cured meat that between two slices of a fresh, crusty baguette bought from the local market paired with mozzarella, chorizo and rocket leaves just screams, ‘summer’.
That’s exactly what we did. To be honest, I’m not sure it tasted all that different to prosciutto bought from Tesco. Considerably more slimy - something my friend, Rose, struggled to adjust to - but nevertheless, once squished at the bottom of your bag for the best part of three hours in 35 degree heat - who can tell?
Mussels
I love seafood. Especially abroad. Mussels, clams, prawns, squid - give me all of it. Luckily for me, seafood is a local delicacy in Croatia, (as with most coastal areas in the med), so prior to arrival, I’d already found a restaurant where I could try some.
We arrived to Fish Bar El Pupo rather late, at about 9pm, and both the restaurants interior, and exterior were crowded with people. Upon sight we began to lose hope, but the waitress managed to find us a small table for two, for the three of us to squeeze round. Anything to try the most widespread shellfish in the Adriatic.
Served in a rich, creamy white wine sauce alongside potatoes sautéed in rosemary, thyme, and oregano, I devoured the lot. The saltiness of the mussels oozed out from their shells into the sauce - creating an explosion for the senses as the different flavours competed against each other for the top spot.
Not to mention - an incredibly generous portion size. Not that I had any trouble wiping the plate clean.
Pistachio ice cream
On holiday, a post-dinner gelato is obligatory. An essential. A non-negotiable. This holiday was no different. Every night we’d head to a new gelato store in search of new flavours, scrambling for tasters of banana cookie, hazelnut and one of my favourites; pistachio. As a flavour, pistachio has really taken a hold of social media recently. Croissants, spread, chocolate bars - you name it. Knowing my love for the humble nut itself (a favourite pub snack of mine), I’d been waiting for the moment I could try pistachio in its ice cream form; a rejuvenating refreshment in the stiff, evening heat.
There’s a running theme to this newsletter, but this was good. While I was concerned that the cream may be too overpowering, the pistachio flavour was incredibly distinct, creating the perfect balance between salty and sweet. The perfect choice for the indecisive among us.
Radler
Recommended to me by my mum after her own trip to Dubrovnik last year, Radler is a concoction of beer or cider, mixed with a fruit flavoured beverage - typically lemon. While slightly disappointed at its 2% ABV, once I’d tasted it, it didn’t matter. Despite resembling cider on account of its fizz, the lemon flavour gives the drink a lightness that leaves you feeling quenched and refreshed. I often struggle with cider due to the fizz, and sheer amount of liquid making me feel like I’m about to burst - but this was the perfect accompaniment to a side of tacos, the three of us agreed.
Wine
I’m not a wine connoisseur by any means, but I do love a glass of either white, or rosé with dinner. Despite spending most of my time looking up the wines listed to ensure I didn’t accidentally order a deep coloured, sweet rosé over a pale blush - I was rather pleased with what I had managed to order. Each glass was dry, crisp and smooth, just as I like it. Not only that, they were all under €6 a glass - and local to Dubrovnik too.
Caesar salad
But alas, even Dubrovnik has its faults - and this Caesar salad was it. I know Caesar salads aren’t exactly supposed to be colourful, given the combination of romaine lettuce, chicken, Parmesan, a creamy white sauce and bacon - oh yes, bacon? None. Parmesan? Replaced with cheddar cheese. To say I was disappointed was an understatement. Not to blow my own trumpet but I make a pretty good Caesar salad. So to pay €13 for a bowl of lettuce, cheddar cheese and unseasoned chicken was disturbing. Note to self, don’t settle for the most blazingly obvious, tourist trap restaurant just because you’re hangry.
Knopper
Essentially, it’s just a wafer filled with a hazelnut and cream. But let me tell you; so simple, yet so effective. I’ve never been a fan of wafer (I don’t think I’ve ever had an ice cream in a cone in my life), but now? I can see the appeal. Maybe I’m just maturing, but this pocket-sized treat was the perfect pre-dinner snack.
I’ve recently become quite fond of hazelnut flavouring, and with only a thin slather spread between two wafer squares, this struck the right balance. I recommend keeping in the fridge overnight for optimum flavour, and crunch.
Black risotto (crni rižot)
One of Croatia’s most ubiquitous dishes, black risotto was at the top of my ‘must try’ list. A seafood symphony of mussels, prawns and clams blackened with cuttlefish ink, this one speaks to me on many levels. Having been warned about the consequences it has on your tongue after consumption, I was only more intrigued.
It quite literally is, black. It may sound obvious, but I hadn’t expected it to be quite as rich in colour as it actually was. The ink from the cuttlefish was practically dripping off each spoonful, leaving my bowl with splashes of what looked like paint up its sides. This one in particular was packed full with seafood, resulting in an empowering salty flavour.I can’t quite explain it, but compared to a standard, beige-coloured risotto, this was considerably more rich.
Obviously, I finished the whole lot. Having mopped up the remaining black liquid with a piece of bread, my tongue, unsurprisingly, resembled that of a dragon’s. As a seafood fanatic, this was the highlight of my Croatian food experiences - and one I recommend you try too.
See you all next time.
Love, Hannah xx